When it comes to the traditional attire of the Vietnamese people, one immediately thinks of the Ao Dài. Having gone through various periods and changes in history, the Vietnamese Áo Dài is still there.
Withstanding continuous transformations, the Áo Dài has retained its traditional features and contributes to the graceful and gentle beauty of Vietnamese women. The Áo Dài is a source of pride for our people as you find in it our essence, spirit and characters.
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#2. 18th century: four-panel dress #3. 19th century: five-panel dress |
#1. 11th – 18th century (Lý – Trần – Lê dynasties): Giao Lĩnh dress
Giao Lĩnh dress was a traditional Vietnamese garment, prevalent during the Lý – Trần – Lê dynasties, from the 11th to the 18th century. This style of clothing bore a primitive resemblance to the nowadays Áo Dài. It featured a crossover collar, with the front flaps crossing over each other on the right side of the wearer’s chest. It was loose-fitting and had slits on both sides. The dress had different types of sleeves, but primarily distinguished by wide straight sleeves or snuggly tight sleeves.
#2. 18th century: four-panel dress
For the sake of convenience at work and in travel, the traditional dress was redesigned into a four-panel dress that female folk song singers have been wearing until now.
The four-panel dress has four flaps reaching down to the calves, two at the back that are sewn together and two in the front that are left separate. The garment has no buttons, and it is fastened by tying up the front flaps. It features long, loosely-fitted sleeves. You wear it with a long black skirt and a camisole underneath.
#3. 19th century: five-panel dress
During the reign of Nguyễn dynasty, the five-panel dress was introduced to create a distinction between the noble class and peasants.
The dress featured a stand-up collar and five flaps, consisting of four main ones and an additional one, sewn together. Due to limited textile technology at that time, fabric woven from silk was from 30 to 50cm wide only.
The LeMur Áo Dài was brought to life by the creative hands of a Vietnamese artist who adopted his French name as Le Mur. Based on the five-panel dress, he began to innovate it by widening the sleeves, eliminating the high collar and redesigning the pants and the dress’s hem to better fit the female body.
However, he faced a great deal of opposition from public opinion, as many believed that this design was improperly influenced by Western styles, not adhering to the cultural norms and traditions of Vietnam at the time.
Following the LeMur Áo Dài, another Vietnamese artist called Lê Phổ made further innovations to the five-panel dress.
He raised the collar, and the dress was made to follow the contours of your upper torso, with the lower flaps open on both sides. The dress became fitted around the upper body, with the lower flaps open. This transformation resulted in a new Áo Dài that struck a balance between tradition and modernity, receiving enthusiastic acclaim. Lê Phổ Áo Dài gained significant popularity throughout the 1950s.
The 1960s saw the emergence of Raglan Áo Dài, which was created by Dung tailoring house in Dakao, Saigon.
The biggest difference of the Raglan Áo Dài lies in its close fit that hugs the upper torso and its raglan sleeves that provide the wearer more comfort. The two flaps are connected by a row of buttons on one side. This style of Áo Dài played a crucial role in shaping the future direction of Vietnamese Áo Dài fashion.
#7. Áo Dài from the 1970s to present
Through various changes in terms of style and material, the Vietnamese Áo Dài has evolved into a national costume that embodies the spirit of our people, preserving the essence and cultural identity of Vietnam.
The Áo Dài carries a unique and alluring elegance, at the same time offering modesty to women, that no other outfits can match. Nowadays, during occasions like Lunar New Year, festivals, wedding ceremonies, or in office settings, the traditional Ao dai is commonly worn.
Silk - The perfect material for making Áo Dài
As of a country with a silk weaving tradition spanning thousands of years, Vietnamese silk has long been renowned for its luxurious, smooth, and durable qualities. And since some point in time , the silk Áo Dài has become a subject of poetic and musical tributes, stirring the hearts of both wearers and admirers alike:
The Saigon sun feels unexpectedly cool.
Because you, wearing Hà Đông silk, are the reason
Established in 2018 by Founder Văn Hằng, each DeSilk’s design carries a story, an emotion inspired by the nature, culture and traditional craftmanship of Vietnam, refined by the hands and minds of skilled artisans. DeSilk’s aspiration is to promote the essence of Vietnamese silk while also bringing a breath of fresh air with modern designs that have a Western feel and are created by Vietnamese-Swiss Art Director Minh Pham. DeSilk's products range from pure silk fabric, scarves of various sizes, masks, bow ties, ready-to-wear garments, and notably the Áo Dài, offering diverse experiences to customers.
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